Q&A with Celebrity Dermatologist Dr Doris Day

A regular on Dr Oz, The View and Live with Kelly and Ryan, Dr Doris Day specialises in laser, cosmetic, surgical and aesthetic dermatology. Dr Doris is a Professor at the New York University Langone Medical Centre, an author of three books including the bestselling Beyond Beauty, and she was selected by NYT as a SuperDoctor for 2021.

Transitions from one season to another are a time of stress for the body, especially the skin. These are the times when I see flares of conditions like acne, rosacea, eczema or psoriasis.

If you are prone to breakouts or have a chronic skin condition, this is a time to pay special attention to your skincare routine and to make sure not to skip any steps. 

I see the worst sunburns in the spring. We've all been indoors and have a bit of cabin fever, so on that first warm spring day we are excited to spend time outdoors but often forget the sun protection.

I know that you know you should wear sunscreen every day all year round, but in the spring, it's time to make sure you stick to your daily application and add sunscreen throughout the day if you spend an extended amount of time outdoors.

Cleansing remains the most important step in your beauty routine because you need to start with a clean canvas so all your other products can penetrate and work properly. In the spring, this is especially important since you may be using more sunscreen and makeup, so it's important to wash them off at the end of each day. 

Each season has its own special qualities and affects our skin differently. A change in humidity, temperature and exposure to sunlight are just a few of the reasons your skin needs an adjustment as the longer, warmer summer days approach. This may mean switching to a lighter moisturiser in the morning, exfoliating more often during the week, using a higher SPF sunscreen and reapplying it more often during the day.

Yes, as the seasons change and the weather along with it, your skin will have different needs. Our skin helps regulate and control body temperature in the warmer summer months, which often means we sweat more. One of the elements in sweat is an ingredient called the natural moisturising factor. This helps keep our skin hydrated and is one of the reasons we may need a less rich moisturiser in the spring and summer than in the colder, drier winter months. You don't need to be dripping with sweat to see these benefits.  Much of the water loss from the skin is insensible, meaning you don't even notice it because it evaporates off your skin before it accumulates to any great degree, but it's still there. 

You may need to exfoliate two to three times per week, especially if you are using a mineral-based sunscreen that sits on the surface of the skin and can be thicker than the absorbed sunscreens.

In the morning: Cleanse, serum, vitamin C, light moisturiser, sunscreen

In the evening: Cleanse, gently exfoliate 2-3 times per week, serum, retinol (even in the summer), moisturiser.

“The micro-environment beneath your mask is starkly different than normal skin at its baseline, increasing the humidity from your breath and circulating microbes,” says Dr Doris. “This persistent loop of wet/dry states results in a condition that I call dyshidrosis, which ultimately leads to a breakdown of the delicate facial skin and can result in maskne,” she says. 

DR DORIS’ TOP TIPS 

• Proper cleansing: Use a gentle cleanser and completely remove all makeup each day.

• Do not over-exfoliate: This can strip the outer layers of the skin, leading to increased water loss and increased skin sensitivity.

• Use lower concentrations of retinol, glycolic and salicylic acid: These chemical exfoliants can make the skin extra-sensitive.

• Hydrate properly: Use ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides that help maintain water balance and skin health.

• Use soothing and antiseptic ingredients such as aloe, allantoin and zinc